On The Road Again!
WELCOME to the new section about my travels!
Those of you who have read my posts in the section "Traveling in the World of Books" probably remember that I promised a surprise with the appearance of the new part about my travels and the occasion to reread "Shogun" again. YES, my dream of visiting the Land of the Rising Sun - Japan, has come true.
In early April this year, with the assistance of the RavelTravel agency, we - a total of 24 people - flew half the planet /10 hours of non-stop flight/ from Istanbul to the island state. It is no coincidence that this is the country that first welcomes our celestial body, it is no coincidence that many eyes are directed there, it is no coincidence that it is leading in every respect - economically, culturally and spiritually, and an example for the rest of the world to follow.
Our program was extremely rich and dynamic, in this short time we were able to touch the main sights - Shinto and Buddhist shrines, visit places of worship, enjoy old customs, transform into geishas and samurais and more, and more. I do not undertake to arrange each of them in ascending order, they were all exciting and unforgettable, they will be remembered for a long time.
As our guide Eleonora used to say, no one leaves Japan forever!!! She herself received her education here, extremely erudite and resourceful, she turned every place she visited into a fairy tale, giving us invaluable knowledge about the distant country.
Our arrival in Osaka, the day before the opening of the World Expo, which repeats the one from 50 years ago, happened quite late. Tired, most of us headed to the hotel to be ready for the next day, which is scheduled to enjoy the Sakura, the cherry blossoms. Well, there is no such experience.
Our arrival in Osaka, the day before the opening of the World Expo, which repeats the one from 50 years ago, happened quite late. Tired, most of us headed to the hotel to be ready for the next day, during which we were scheduled to get acquainted with a piece of Japanese history - Osaka Castle. A remarkable facility of both defensive and civil character, built and destroyed repeatedly, it tells a wonderful tale of bygone times and heroes. Crowds of tourists, local and foreign, strict entry regime, impeccable and respectful attitude towards children and adults, unique views from every direction, including the defensive moat, turned into an attraction. Crowds of tourists, local and foreign, strict entry regime, impeccable and respectful attitude towards children and adults, unique view from every direction, including towards the defensive moat, turned into an attraction. I immediately remembered that part of "Shogun" that describes the battle of the brown and the gray, supporters and enemies of the warring daimyo for the place of the shogun. The castle itself, like a snow-white crane, is perched on a hill, obviously impeccably maintained in a form that inspires wonder and admiration, and serves as an example of how to take care of our historical heritage. Even here I was impressed by the impeccable cleanliness, which I repeatedly saw and was amazed by!
The park belonging to the castle has many alleys that prepared us for tomorrow - to enjoy the blooming cherry trees - Sakura, a world-famous contemplation of these plantations, which served as the basis for more than one poem dedicated precisely to this spring experience. And when a light breeze blows, I have the feeling that it is snowing, to which the locals give their unconditional attention, and not only them!!!
That's the beauty of tourist trips - from the era of the shoguns and samurai, we quickly find ourselves in the 21st century, the era of modernism and new technologies. Umeda Sky Building is the modern calling card of Osaka, with its 175 m height and 40 floors, it is the symbol of today, and perhaps tomorrow. Let's not forget that it was built over 30 years, and it couldn't be otherwise when it comes to high-tech architecture.
The initial design envisioned the building having 4 towers, but the economic crisis of the 1980s necessitated a change in the plan and the towers remained 2. In themselves, they are imposing and impressive, giving the place a cosmic appearance, I had the feeling that an interplanetary ship would take off from it at any moment. Today, this futuristic object is used most rationally, with areas for all kinds of activities - restaurants, shops, meeting and event halls, office space, open areas in the highest part, and of course, a major tourist attraction, visited daily by hundreds of people thirsty for unusual experiences. Believe me, you really feel very strange in this place.
The afternoon of this first day in Japan was declared free in the Nanba Shinsaibashi area. I admit, my vocabulary is not rich enough to describe in detail what I saw and experienced in those few hours. I will only note that I registered over 16,000 steps, which is an absolute record for me. As I described above - crowds of tourists /local and foreign/, all kinds of languages, noise, din, light boards, street-food zones, crabs, sushi, local delicacies, people chewing and drinking, local street-fashion, heavily made-up /to the point of grotesque/ girls and boys, attraction boats on some of the tributaries of the Yodo River.
The highlight of the day (at least for me) was lunch at one of the taverns in a small street, which offers a choice of vegetables, mushrooms and other local delicacies to "cook" a Japanese dish. I admit, I didn't do well, it was quite spicy for my taste, the noodles (our vermicelli) predominated, the rest, probably steamed, was watery and I didn't even try it. But the experience was unique, it cannot be repeated at our latitudes.
The second day of our stay here started very early, we had a long walk to Yoshimo Park, where the unforgettable "Sakura" awaits us, the flowering of Japanese ornamental cherry trees. The Japanese have an enviable feeling for nature and its creations. Every leaf, stalk, flower has its purpose in their spiritual life, which explains and demands their worship. "The fleeting charm of things" is the formula with which they describe the brief moment that nature offers them to enjoy what is happening around.
And here I will remind you of an episode from "Shogun", in which Omi contemplates the raindrops flowing from the leaves of a tree, while in the cauldron one of the crew members of the foreign ship is being tortured. For us Europeans, it is difficult to accept such practices, just as for an involuntary act of disobedience, the head of an ordinary person costs, but this is the order of things in those years.
During the long journey to Yoshimo Park, I had the opportunity to observe everything that accompanied us - roads, villages and towns, infrastructure, lots of greenery and flowering bushes, impeccable cleanliness and shiny cars, trucks, buses, local trains. I was amazed by the organization of the recycling points.
Each pile of waste was carefully covered, pressed down so that it would not be blown away by the wind, but I did not see if they were labeled, I would not be surprised if they were. This order speaks for itself about the attitude towards work, regardless of its nature, the care to fulfill your duties in the best possible way. If we all applied this approach, would the results of our work be on par with what I saw and admired?!?!?
And now for the main thing! Yoshino Park is forested with over 30 thousand cherry trees, which bloom sequentially to ensure a longer duration and allow more visitors to enjoy the unforgettable view. Large arrays of delicate pink-white flowers stretch as far as the eye can see, and the lovers of this view are numerous - local and foreign, one of which was our group of 24 people. Unfortunately, I could not recreate the aroma of the blossoms in writing - a light, barely perceptible delicate scent that fills the air around, and when the breeze blows - the fallen petals fall like snowflakes. A beauty that is beyond description, but deeply enchanting. It is worth traveling half the world just to touch this experience and keep it deep in your heart and soul!!!
Coincidentally or not, we witnessed an impressive religious ceremony /I don't dare to define it - Shinto or Buddhist/, but it was well organized, spectacularly presented and watched by many spectators, especially since it was a Saturday. Very strange /to my eyes/ clothing, regalia, chants and a specific dance accompanied the participants, but due to our limited time we did not wait for the end.
After a typical Japanese lunch at Takabatakecho in the old capital of Nara /I admit with my hand on my heart that I did not like and could not swallow this food - strange, tasteless, for my taste, sticky, overcooked, etc., but I survived it with red caviar and baked slices with sugar ....../, we visited the famous Shinto temple Todaiji, located in the park of freely moving deer and roe deer. A shrine of the Fujiwara clan, founded in the second half of the 8th century AD, it houses countless bronze and stone lanterns that were donated over the centuries by the ruling aristocracy, and not only by them, I think. They say that men who have sinned make large donations and gifts to atone for their sins, whether this applies to these cases, I do not venture to guess, but I assume so.
Unfortunately, I didn't have enough physical strength to admire the inside of the largest wooden temple in the world and the massive bronze statue of Buddha, but on the other hand, I had the pleasure of watching the deer and deer freely roaming the park, who have mastered the Japanese bow, discreetly nudge you to give them some of the rice cookies that only they can eat.
After a long and emotionally charged day, we settled into a wonderful hotel in the center of Kyoto, the old capital of the island nation and home of the emperor for centuries. I need to get some sleep and rest, because tomorrow is also an exciting day that I am looking forward to. How will I look in a geisha outfit, will I fit in with dignity during the tea ceremony, I have yet to find out?!?!?
As I expected, the day turned out to be very long and full of excitement and emotions. The tea ceremony is known around the world as an important element of Japanese culture, which has no other analogue. The Japanese themselves define it as a meeting of friends, during which they demonstrate their good feelings for each other in silence and symbolic purification. . I can't imagine being in complete silence for up to 5 hours and only expressing your feelings with certain gestures and sounds?!?!? For centuries, this tea meeting has been taking place in a strictly defined order - specific vessels, gestures, behavior, each of which has its own meaning. Whether you turn the bamboo brush left or right, whether you turn the cup in one direction or the other, whether you put the little sweets in front of you or to the sides, everything follows the prescribed order. I failed to mention that you must take off your shoes barefoot, as is the practice everywhere (just be careful not to wear torn socks, you'll be a laughing stock!!!). I admitted that I didn't like the matcha tea at all, it was like drinking a decoction of grass, with a slightly bitter aftertaste, I don't understand why the world is crazy about this grass?!?! But this is their way of life and culture, which differ from our customs and understandings, we respect them because we are guests, we accept them, but we don't have to like them, right?
I admitted that I didn't like the matcha tea at all, it was like drinking a decoction of grass, with a slightly bitter aftertaste, I don't understand why the world is crazy about this grass?!?! But this is their way of life and culture, which differ from our customs and understandings, we respect them because we are guests, we accept them, but we don't have to like them, right?
Again a typical Japanese lunch in Kyoto-Higashishirokojicho, and then in Kikusuibokocho we will transform into geishas and samurais, dressed in traditional clothes. Now I understand why geishas had many assistants, it is not easy to dress in a kimono by yourself! We chose clothes to our liking and several employees helped us transform into geishas. I admitted that I had a hard time catching my breath after tightening the obi, and not only me, but as we say: "Babe, bear it for the sake of beauty". The rain did not interfere with our wonderful mood and the photo shoot that would preserve our extraordinary vision for generations. Today's hectic day has also affected Japanese women, who very rarely and only on special occasions dress in traditional kimonos, as the "samurai" do.
Kiyomizu Temple, or the Temple of Pure Water, the famous Sanjusangendo, which preserves 1001 statues of the goddess of mercy Kanon, one of the most revered goddesses in Japanese religion, are the next religious shrines to visit. It turned out that besides Buddha, the Japanese do not have one god - as in Christianity or Islam - Jesus Christ or Allah, but they have many deities - kami, who help them in one way or another. And here I will recall "Shogun", during one of the conversations Mariko explains to Blackthorn the concept of kamikaze - kami is the good spirit, and kaze - the holy saint who helped the Japanese fleet defeat the Chinese and Mongols in one of the countless battles between them. In addition to the museum exposition, the gardens also deserve attention, but due to the rainy weather we could not enjoy them.
The third day in Kyoto was no less exciting, and it couldn't be otherwise, since you are in another world for a short time, so different from the one you have known until now. The Shinto shrine Fushimi Inari, home to 10,000 torii /gates/ in the typical red color, attracts thousands of tourists. It is believed that whoever has passed through them, how will you pass through this many gates?, is purified. I wonder how the locals satisfy their need for solitude and concentration on their own needs, while tourists are everywhere. Often, they, not belonging to this religion, do not take into account the situation, eat, drink, talk loudly, which the Japanese do not allow themselves to do in any way.
The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, the Katsura River, the famous Togekutso Bridge, rickshaws pulled by human power, kayaks ready to storm the waters of the river, countless shops, galleries, souvenirs, numerous tourists attacking the local landmark. And what peace you feel, sinking into the magical lights of high-rising bamboo plantations. What a pleasure for the ears to get rid of the human noise of all kinds of spoken languages.
The last object on today's schedule was the Golden Temple. There is no such beauty!!! The aristocracy allowed themselves the luxury of building magnificent buildings, maintaining amazing gardens. Special care is taken for them even today, we saw an 800-year-old tree that is propped up so that it does not collapse from old age. At the end of the day, the sun cast reflections on the pond in which the temple is reflected, and the photos we took will remind us of this splendor for a long time.
The city of Himeji is home to a beautiful castle, known as the White Heron, which has been the only one in its original form for over 400 years. It is incredible that its tower has never been captured, although there have been battles and they were not isolated. Legends and mystery accompany its history, the truth is somewhere in the middle, but the view is unique. Again a protected moat, today an attraction with floating boats, cherry trees and Falling petals, huge stone blocks carried by hand by the subjects of the local daimyo. Impeccable order, incredible cleanliness, crowds of tourists give the historical landmark a fitting sense of eternity. The Kokoen Garden, adjacent to the castle, built according to tradition, is a place where the lord and his retinue enjoy the flowers and shrubs, the murmur of small waterfalls, and the floating colorful fish. An idyll and a dream for each of us to break away from the dynamics of today for a moment!!! How can a person leave this piece of peace, solitude, how can he not enjoy the peace that the babbling water and the amazing aroma of the blooming flowers fill the air, how the street noise is drowned out by the amazing greenery, but ..... we are only tourists and our place is different. The local guide did not take into account the opening hours of the Sake Museum and the visit to this site was canceled. The intervention of the bus driver saved the situation by taking us to a sake distillery. We tried their latest production, reminiscent of our own liqueur, and bought a lot of local specialties, how could we miss the opportunity to please our loved ones with the most traditional Japanese product, known all over the world!
The last day in Kyoto is scheduled for free time and shopping. Since I don't like shopping, I allowed myself to walk around the hotel, take photos of objects and people at will, enjoy the views and hide them in my heart. The most notable was the annual performance of professional geishas Miyako Odori. Today, the number of these priestesses of art has greatly decreased to 80 thousand, who for 125 millionToday, the number of these priestesses of art has greatly decreased to 80 thousand, which is negligible for 125 million Japan, but it enjoys great attendance and popularity. The traditional art of geishas is very Japanese, in my eyes and ears everything was monotonous, unmelodious, incomprehensible. It would be good to explain the individual scenes, dances, the instrumental and vocal parts, so that we feel part of the performance. I doubt that any of the interested parties will read this blog, but the organizers should keep in mind that these performances are attended not only by Japanese people, which will increase the number of visitors and make them empathetic to this art.
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